Hammams, Riads, Farmers, Amine El Gotabi, Moro and Plus 61

I am writing this from Marrakech airport as I am about to fly home after eight glorious days in Morocco. This week's Monday Muse is entirely dedicated to my trip, because travel really is my ultimate inspiration. I didn't anticipate making this a research trip. I just needed some winter sun and to see my dear friend Amy Thomson, Founder of Moody App (which forecasts your mood based on your hormones) but it ended up being a deep dive into everything beauty, spa and perfume.

My Monday Muse is the artist and photographer Yumna Al-Arashi who took these beautiful photographs of women in the hammam. "Traditional bath houses have always been a sacred space in which women can have to themselves without the pressures we deal with in the outside world," she told Refinery29. "We no longer feel self-conscious, we don’t judge one another or compete, and we don’t have to deal with the male gaze."

Feeling... so revived after Vitamin D and desert air but I am also excited to go home and see my son and get back into my routine!

Seeing... The work of Amine el Gotaibi up close. Moroccos most prominent contemporary artist has his studio just out of town, which I was lucky enough to visit. Kelly Wearstler was obsessed. His work used natural materials, such as wool and earth, to link historical and societal concerns and reflections. My most enduring memory was walking through a courtyard of live sheep to access his show. There was no separation between the giver of nature, and the taker of man.

Eating... I was so lucky to eat such incredible food in Marrakech. The area I spent most of my time in is Gueliz which is a hub for creatives. Plus 61, Farmers and Blue Ribbon all co-exist in the same building so that always a goodplace to check out. Here's some of my faves

• Amal Women's Centre - A daily choice of affordable and delicious food where revenues go back to the work of the Amal Centre.
• Farmers - a beautifully done restaurant with amazing European food.
• Plus 61 - the local spot for everyone of note. The chicken schnitzel was mindblowing.
• Farasha Farmhouse - Go for Sunday brunch and take your swimsuit
• Blue Ribbon Bakery - for coffee, breakfast and pastries
• Petanque Social Club - Lunch, Dinner or read a book by the fireplace.

Sleeping... Although I stayed at Amy's house all week, here is what's on my list.

• Farasha Farmhouse - Just outside of Marrakech, heaven awaits, for networking and party time!
• Jnane Tamsna - Black woman owned. The most stunning and grand property, ideal for a retreat.
• Riad Rosemary - beautifully formed in the heart of the Medina

Watching... I've watched zero tv this week but have downloaded Babel for the plane... I may also rewatch Hideous Kinky just for lols although I had a long conversation with Amy about places that West London people exclusively travel to..

Smelling... I've been checking out all the Moroccan perfume shops for research and I bought these two scents from Moro (which is a must see retail experience) and this one from Heritage Berber. OMG they smell divine. I realise that all my fave smells are strong and pungent and from Africa/Middle East. This trip has been so helpful for me to build my scent palette.

Oh and I bought the same Orange Blossom oil that I bought years ago for three euro in the Medina. Orange blossom is everywhere and in my Hamman I was oiled from head to toe in it. Heaven!

Thinking... About Franz Fanon and decolonisation of taste from the Western bourgouise. Morocco was officially made a French protectorate in the Treaty of Fez in 1912, with parts of the country handed over to Spain. Unlike Algeria, which became part of France, Morocco was technically not a colony but a protectorate - the country's sultan continued as head of state.

Nonetheless there is a strong Franco presence here that I started to find a bit icky. It was less than a half century, yet the effects are still lingering. There was a great community of Returnees. Moroccans who have come back to their country to live and start enterprises and I was grateful to see that community in action.

My resolution is to spend more time in Africa and South America this year and I'm excited for how this will reprogram my mind.

Working... The best place for co-working, coffee and pilates is Bloom House in Gueliz. So good, I went twice.

Wearing... I packed red, brown, cream and all my other personal brand colours. I loved my NYE outfit.

• I also wore this Paris Georgia Ida dress in apple which was a curveball to the palette but also is STILL just the sexiest dress ever!
• I lived in this wool sweater from Camille Charriere x NA-KD. It was a winner for the chilly nights in Marrakech and I will get it also in brown.
• On NYE I wore the Ivy J Orchid earrings which had everyone mesmerised.

Newsletters... the sweater...which I discovered on my friend Otegha's Add To Wishlist Shopping Substack.

Reading... I've ALMOST finished my Cleopatra biography. Its very dense so it's been taking me a while and I'm researching and noting as I read. It's sad because I'm at the final part where she and Anthony lose the battle against Octavian and I know they're both drawing near to the end.

Listening... Amy told me that this song was the soundtrack to her African road trip with her now husband, Amine. I love it.

Applying... I forgot that the air is much dryer here so copious amounts of lip balm.

Talking... At Vision Setting Workshop on Friday. See you there!

Travel Tips:

• When you exit the airport, buy a $20 phone card for a weeks WiFi
• When you return and check in, you must STILL go to the desk to get a physical boarding card even if you’re an online/hand luggage only person like me.
• All my recommendations are on my global travel map and Instagram highlights.

Have a great week!

Shar x